Redesign of A/C

[bones]

Well i dont know if its boredom or the fact that i cant even give it away but i decided yesterday arvo to do a bit of a redesign of my old A/C, so with youthfull energy i ripped in to it this morn, had the motor off and a bit of bushman thinking i worked out the easiest way to remount it, interesting just by spinning the engine up the other way(plugs up), there is enough room to spin a 68" prop, and with the mounting of a 40lt(i think) seat tank up about 12" higher than where the seat was before, to clear the suspenion and other stuff, standing back, the prop thrust line looks to be about my lower back, be interesting to see with these proper CLT checks latter when i finish, just for my curiousity..
So after i do a little job in the morning, i'll get to making a seat tank bracket, and mount that up, probably move the joy stick up a bit to just under the seat,, then remount the exhaust, some radiator hoses for the new position, new cheek plates to raise the head abut 5", and new push rods, remount the prerotator on the other side so they miss the carbs..
Sounds like a lot though in reality it's not that much to do, and the cost will be probably $100-150 for a bit of allum plate and odds and sods, as i'll do most of the work myself.
If i had a camera that worked i would take some piccys but it dont matter, let you know the progress of it, dont matter to much any way it dont get used and it will give me something to do..
Anybody got a 68" prop i can try on it..
Bones

[BeefBear]

Yep, Barry has but I think he's in the process of going through it.... :yikes:

[Birdy2]

I'll swap ya me 68" WD [ with hub] for a 70L tank. :yes:

[bones]

I'll swap ya me 68" WD [ with hub] for a 70L tank. :yes:

It no good they swing the other way i was gonna use a certain prop that was 72" but now 69",and i never noticed till now but that certain rock smashed all the top of tail after it left what was left of the end of the prop blade, i presume, not to mention that split on the move again, didnt think i had much to do this avro.. :eyebrow: :focus:

[russ]

One of me drop saws would redesign it Reeeeel good.........[ yea little pieces] :evil_laugh:

LOL........... :peace:

[bones]

Ok guys need some imput here from others who has redesigned,rebuilt,built,repaired, or other wise stuffed around in the shed,,,, how many times is the spanner that you need just out of your bloody reach, and or on the other side of the machine,,,, and how the hell can a nut that you dropped and watched land on the shed floor, just vanish, like this is David Copperfield shit right there,, just bloody dissappears, and you get up to go round the other side to get the spanner, that you know is over that side, only to find after four laps around the shed yelling obsenities(lucky i live out of town abit)that it was just behind the tyre that you were sitting.... breath deeply,, :beer:
Ok well nearly finished, the motor is mounted plumbed and running, the new seat tank is on and plumbed up and looking good to, just have to move the head up and new push rods, abit of electrical work and done,,, and heres a tip for the young players out there,,, a 582 rotax running at about(no tacho hooked up yet) 3000 rpm, bites like a bull terrior on steriods when you grab the kill wires with your hand to earth them out ,,, and it only takes approx 4000 shocks before the motor actually stops... need to do some wiring before i start it again :pistoles:

[Birdy2]

I only have 2 tools in my shed, a hammer n a box o matches.[ if i can't fix it with the hammer, i burn it]

And them two bob toggle switches make for better mag grounders too.[ idiot] :crazyas:

[rotor]

good one bones ...



and heres a tip for the young players out there,,, a 582 rotax running at about(no tacho hooked up yet) 3000 rpm, bites like a bull terrior on steriods when you grab the kill wires with your hand to earth them out ,,, and it only takes approx 4000 shocks before the motor actually stops...

[ben]

bones
i'm doing mine over also, i raised the mast 8" and going to be swinging a 72" wd and putting a tall tail on her.

[bones]

ok now it finished , here is a few pics.
Before mods.

[bones]

Now after...

[bones]

one more..

[russ]

Mate, those cheek plates up top holdin ya head etc..............mate they is interestin to say the least.

Are they that way................why :confused:

Sorry bud, but they worry me. Can see potential for :yikes:

[bones]

Mate, those cheek plates up top holdin ya head etc..............mate they is interestin to say the least.

Are they that way................why :confused:

Sorry bud, but they worry me. Can see potential for :yikes:

I too was abit worried about the height of they, though they are under the legal lenght the cheek plates can be by ASRA, and after talking to Adrian about it all, he asked me to do some hard turns an the likes to see if they are flexing, and what to feel for, and there is none of what he described would be happening, and the only other thing that can be done is to place a piece of 2" allu in between the plates, between the top of the mast and the head. A possible reason as to why the head is so stable is the plate that i used for the cheek plates, had a very slight curve in it when it turned up, so i cut the plates so as to have the curve faceing each other, so as to be holding each plate against each other sort of(damn i'm confused now) upon tightening up all the bolts i couldnt get any movement sideways at all from pulling on the head, it's only like 8" between the top of the mast and the head.

If that is all that was worrying you, i hope that explains it, if you have more than that in your concerns please, do tell, Is there something i have missed???

[russ]

fair enough mate................but i'm still not happy with them............tooooo long, and are they 6mm plate.

And all relys on 4 small bolts way back on the mast [5mm bolts too]

then you got mast twist forces, helped immensly by the offset from head centre back to the mast centre, and in your case it's a bloody long way. :nervious:

But if "the man" signs it off, then you is legal..............phew :yikes:

[bones]

fair enough mate................but i'm still not happy with them............tooooo long, and are they 6mm plate.

then you got mast twist forces, helped immensly by the offset from head centre back to the mast centre, and in your case it's a bloody long way.

That alright though you know as well as i do, your new Raf's mast is in part made up of pieces of plate riveted together ect. and then there are other makes of gyro two seat machines mind you that have the mast in what i see a couple of pieces to get the rotor head far enough forward to be right for the hang test,,,,, shit i cant find a pic of one now, so i think it is need to remember that this is a single seat gyro also, no where near the load as the twins, so it all comes back to apples to apples..

And all relys on 4 small bolts way back on the mast [5mm bolts too]
It wouldnt matter if the cheek plates where 4' long the bolts holding it will have the same strenght to hold the same among regardless of what they are holding,, its just the leverage that the plates have on them thats the issue

[Sonnyj]

Bones
I'm just wanderin, so why did you have to make the cheek plates so long?
Did you have to shortin the mast? Or was it the extra fuel tanks?
I know you didn't make them that way just couse they look cool.
Just tryin to learn something here. :cheers:

Cheers
Sonny

[bones]

Sonny, that mast is new and only done i think with out looking at the log book about 50 hrs, so it was the easiest way of gettin the extra height,rather than replacing a perfectly good mast, the extra lenght is only needed to swing the 68" prop.